The good news is that proper device cleaning and maintenance is neither complicated nor expensive. It requires a handful of inexpensive tools, thirty to sixty minutes of your time, and the right knowledge about what works and — critically — what does not. Using the wrong product on a laptop screen or spraying liquid into a vent can cause damage that is far more expensive to fix than the cleaning was worth.
This guide covers everything: which products are safe, which are dangerous, how to clean every surface and component of a laptop correctly, how to extend the same principles to your smartphone and external peripherals, and how to set up a simple maintenance schedule that keeps your devices in the best possible condition long-term.
What this guide covers in full:
- The exact tools and products you need — and what they cost
- Products and methods that can permanently damage your device
- Step-by-step screen cleaning — for glossy, matte, and anti-glare displays
- How to deep clean a keyboard — surface and between the keys
- How to clean laptop vents and improve cooling without opening the device
- Smartphone cleaning — including disinfecting the screen safely
- External monitor, mouse, and keyboard cleaning
- Software maintenance steps that complement physical cleaning
- A simple, realistic maintenance schedule to follow going forward
Why Device Cleaning and Maintenance Actually Matters
Device cleaning is not just about aesthetics. A dirty device is often a poorly performing, shorter-lived device. Understanding the specific ways that dirt, dust, and debris affect your hardware makes the case for regular cleaning much more concrete than "it looks better."
Dust and overheating
Laptops generate heat as a byproduct of processing. The cooling system — a fan that draws in cool air and expels hot air through vents, connected to the processor via a heat pipe — is designed to maintain safe operating temperatures. When dust accumulates on the fan blades and clogs the ventilation grilles, airflow is restricted. The processor runs hotter. In response, it throttles its own speed to generate less heat — meaning your laptop gets slower as a direct consequence of dust buildup. Run hot for long enough, and the thermal stress begins to degrade the components themselves, particularly the battery and the capacitors on the motherboard.
Research consistently shows that a laptop with heavily clogged vents can run 15–25°C hotter than the same machine with clean cooling pathways. That temperature difference is the difference between a healthy CPU at 65°C and a thermally stressed one at 88°C — operating in a range where long-term damage occurs.
Keyboard hygiene and key failure
Crumbs, dust, and debris that fall between keyboard keys do not just sit there harmlessly. Over time, they accumulate beneath the key mechanisms, causing keys to feel sticky, register inconsistently, or stop registering at all. Liquid spills — even a small splash of coffee or a few drops of water — can bridge the electrical contacts beneath keys, causing permanent key failure if not addressed immediately and correctly.
Screen coating degradation
Modern laptop screens have anti-glare or anti-reflective coatings that significantly improve usability in bright environments. These coatings are chemically sensitive — they can be permanently stripped or clouded by the wrong cleaning products. Once the coating is damaged, it cannot be restored without replacing the entire display panel. Using the correct screen cleaning method is therefore not optional — it is essential to preserving a component that costs £80–£200 to replace.
Port and connector reliability
USB ports, headphone jacks, and charging connectors accumulate pocket lint, dust, and debris over time. Lint in a charging port can prevent a good connection, require increased insertion force (which stresses the port's solder joints), and in some cases — particularly with USB-C — cause charging failures. Regular port cleaning prevents these issues from developing.
Building Your Device Cleaning Toolkit
You do not need expensive specialist cleaning kits. The products that work best for safely cleaning devices are inexpensive, widely available, and many are things you may already have at home. Here is exactly what to get and why each item is on the list.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) — 70% concentration
The gold standard cleaning agent for electronics. Disinfects effectively, evaporates rapidly, leaves no residue, and is safe for plastics and most screen coatings when used correctly. Do not use higher concentrations — 99% IPA evaporates too fast to clean effectively and can be harsh on coatings.
Microfibre Cloths (pack of 5+)
The only truly safe material for cleaning screens. Microfibre's ultra-fine fibres lift and trap particles rather than dragging them across the surface. Machine washable and reusable. Buy a multi-pack — you want fresh ones for screens, separate ones for keyboards and exteriors.
Compressed Air Canister
Essential for cleaning vents, fans, and between keyboard keys without touching components. Use in short controlled bursts. Widely available in computer shops and online. The nozzle extension tube gives you precision control over where the air goes.
Soft Bristle Brush or Anti-Static Brush
A clean, soft-bristled brush (a clean, dry makeup brush or dedicated anti-static electronics brush) is ideal for sweeping loose debris from keyboard surfaces and around ports before wiping. Anti-static versions prevent static buildup near sensitive components.
Cleaning Putty / Cyber Clean
A pliable, adhesive putty that can be pressed into keyboard gaps, vent grilles, and textured surfaces to lift embedded debris that brushes and cloths cannot reach. Reusable until it becomes visibly saturated with debris. Excellent for keyboards with difficult-to-reach gaps.
Cotton Swabs (Q-Tips)
For precision cleaning around ports, in the gap between the screen bezel and panel, around function keys, and in other small spaces where a cloth cannot reach. Slightly dampened with IPA for stubborn grime, dry for dust removal.
Distilled Water
For screen cleaning, distilled water is preferable to tap water because it contains no minerals that can leave spots or residue as it evaporates. Used in a 1:1 mix with 70% IPA, or alone on particularly sensitive screens. Available cheaply from supermarkets and hardware stores.
Small Torch or Headlamp
Invaluable for inspecting ports for lint and debris before cleaning, checking whether vent grilles are clogged, and spotting fine scratches or residue on screens that are invisible in normal lighting. A phone torch works, but a hands-free headlamp is more useful during the cleaning process.
💡 Total Cost
A complete device cleaning toolkit assembled from scratch costs approximately £25–£45 and will last through multiple cleaning sessions across a year or more. The microfibre cloths and brushes are reusable indefinitely with washing; the IPA and compressed air will need replacing periodically depending on usage.
What Never to Use When Cleaning Your Devices
Understanding what not to use is as important as knowing the right products. The following are commonly reached-for cleaning products that can cause permanent, irreversible damage to laptops, screens, and smartphones.
🚫 Never use these on your devices
- Household glass cleaner (Windex, Mr Muscle Glass, etc.): Contains ammonia, which permanently strips the anti-glare and anti-reflective coatings from laptop and monitor screens. The damage appears as a permanent haziness or colour shift across the display — unrepairable without panel replacement.
- Bleach or bleach-based wipes: Highly corrosive to plastic casings, keyboard keycap surfaces, and any rubber or silicone components. Will visibly damage the surface within minutes and can corrode internal components if liquid seeps in.
- Paper towels, tissues, or rough cloths: Despite feeling soft to the touch, paper products are abrasive at a microscopic level. Used on a screen, they introduce fine scratches into the display coating over time — invisible at first but visible in raking light after repeated use.
- Acetone (nail polish remover) or paint thinner: Dissolves plastic and rubber on contact and will destroy key legends (the printed characters on keyboard keys), screen coatings, and casing finishes immediately.
- Hydrogen peroxide: While effective as a disinfectant, hydrogen peroxide is too reactive for use on electronics. It can oxidise metal contacts and degrade plastic surfaces.
- Rubbing alcohol above 90% concentration: Very high-concentration IPA evaporates so quickly that it does not provide adequate cleaning action, and the concentration is harsh enough to damage some screen coatings and the matte finishes on laptop lids.
- Spray products applied directly to the device: Any liquid spray — even safe ones — should never be applied directly to a device. The spray can enter vents, gaps, and ports, causing liquid damage to internal components. Always apply to the cloth first, never to the device.
- Vacuum cleaners (domestic): Domestic vacuum cleaners generate significant static electricity that can discharge into and damage sensitive electronic components. They also create suction that can dislodge components and pull dust deeper into the device rather than out. Use compressed air instead.
Before You Start: Essential Preparation Steps
Before applying any cleaning product to any device, follow these preparation steps every time. Skipping them is the most common cause of accidental damage during cleaning.
PREPARATION CHECKLIST — DO THIS BEFORE EVERY CLEAN
- Power off completely — not sleep mode, not screensaver. Shut down properly. Cleaning a powered device risks short circuits if any liquid contacts a live component, and makes it much harder to see dust and smears on a dark screen.
- Unplug the charger — remove the charging cable entirely. This eliminates any residual power flowing through the device.
- Disconnect all peripherals — USB drives, external mice, HDMI cables, and headphones should all be removed before cleaning.
- Allow the device to cool — if you have been using the laptop, let it cool for at least 10–15 minutes before cleaning. Cleaning a warm surface with a damp cloth causes the liquid to evaporate unevenly, potentially leaving residue.
- Work in good light — you need to see what you are doing. Natural light or a desk lamp positioned to show the surface at an angle reveals smears, dust patches, and debris that are invisible in overhead lighting.
- Prepare your cloth in advance — dampen your microfibre cloth with your cleaning solution before you start. It should be damp, not wet. Wring out any excess until no liquid drips when you hold the cloth over a sink.
Part 1: How to Clean Your Laptop Screen Safely
Cleaning Your Laptop Screen — Step by Step
The screen is the most visually sensitive and chemically vulnerable part of your laptop. The anti-glare or anti-reflective coating that makes the display readable in bright conditions is not physically robust — it can be scratched by abrasive materials and chemically degraded by the wrong cleaning agents. Use the following method every time.
Understanding your screen type
Before cleaning, it helps to know what type of display you have, as it affects which cleaning solutions are appropriate:
- Glossy display: Highly reflective, glass-like surface. Common on consumer laptops and MacBooks. Shows fingerprints prominently. Slightly more resilient to cleaning agents but still requires care.
- Matte / anti-glare display: The textured, non-reflective surface common on business laptops and most Windows machines. Hides fingerprints better but the anti-glare coating is more sensitive to chemicals and abrasion.
- OLED display: Becoming more common in premium laptops in 2026. Treat identically to a matte screen — OLED panels are sensitive to pressure and chemicals.
The safe screen cleaning method
STEP-BY-STEP SCREEN CLEANING
- Power off and unplug — essential, as described above. The dark screen makes dust and smears visible.
- First pass — dry microfibre only — before using any liquid, wipe the screen gently with a completely dry microfibre cloth using light circular motions. This removes loose dust and surface particles that could otherwise be dragged across the coating by a damp cloth.
- Prepare your cleaning solution — mix equal parts distilled water and 70% isopropyl alcohol. Apply a small amount to a fresh microfibre cloth. The cloth should be just damp — you should not be able to squeeze any liquid from it.
- Wipe in gentle, consistent strokes — starting from the top of the screen, wipe across in horizontal strokes with very light pressure. Do not scrub or apply firm pressure — the anti-glare coating is thin and pressure-sensitive.
- Never wipe in small circles on a matte screen — circular motions on a matte/anti-glare surface can create an uneven sheen or polished patches in the coating over time. Consistent horizontal or vertical strokes are better.
- Second pass — dry cloth — immediately follow with a second dry microfibre cloth to buff away any remaining moisture and prevent water spots from forming as the solution evaporates.
- Check in raking light — hold the closed laptop at an angle to a light source and check for any remaining streaks or patches. Repeat the damp-then-dry sequence on any remaining marks.
⚠️ Never apply any liquid directly to the screen
Always apply cleaning solution to the cloth, never spray or pour it onto the screen directly. Liquid that runs down the screen can seep behind the bezel into the screen assembly or through the hinge gap onto the motherboard below.
Dealing with stubborn marks
For dried-on smudges that do not lift with the standard method, apply slightly more isopropyl alcohol to the cloth and hold it gently against the mark for 5–10 seconds before wiping. The IPA needs time to soften dried residue. Do not increase pressure — increase contact time instead. Never scratch at the screen with a fingernail or any hard implement.
💡 Pro tip: screen cleaning frequency
A laptop used daily in a typical home or office environment should have the screen cleaned approximately every one to two weeks. If you notice fingerprints or smears affecting readability before then, clean as needed. A dry microfibre wipe takes less than 60 seconds and should be the default first response to any visible screen marks.
Part 2: How to Deep Clean Your Laptop Keyboard
Deep Cleaning Your Laptop Keyboard
The keyboard is the most used and most contaminated surface on a laptop. Over months and years of daily use, it accumulates skin oils, food crumbs, hair, dust, and bacteria in quantities that are genuinely significant. Regular keyboard cleaning is both a hygiene necessity and a mechanical maintenance task — debris under keys causes them to feel different and eventually fail.
Stage 1: Remove loose debris
DISLODGING LOOSE DEBRIS
- Tilt the laptop to approximately 45–75 degrees — holding it open at an angle causes loose debris to fall forward rather than deeper into the keyboard mechanism when dislodged.
- Use the soft brush first — sweep across the keyboard surface with a dry, soft bristle brush, working from the top row of keys downward. Use short, directional strokes that push debris toward the edges rather than between keys.
- Apply compressed air between the keys — using the extension nozzle, apply short bursts of compressed air between rows of keys while the laptop is still tilted. Hold the can upright and keep the nozzle 3–5cm from the surface. Work systematically across each row.
- Brush again — after the compressed air pass, brush again to sweep out anything newly dislodged. You may be surprised by how much comes out even from a keyboard that looks reasonably clean.
Stage 2: Clean the key surfaces
CLEANING KEY SURFACES
- Dampen a microfibre cloth or IPA wipe — use 70% isopropyl alcohol. Wring out thoroughly so the cloth is just barely damp.
- Wipe across the top surface of the keys — press gently and wipe in a consistent direction. The IPA disinfects as well as cleans and evaporates quickly without residue.
- Use a cotton swab for key gaps — dip a cotton swab lightly in IPA and run it along the gaps between key rows. The swab picks up the grime that accumulates in the narrow channels around each key.
- Use cleaning putty for deep gaps — press a small piece of cleaning putty (Cyber Clean or similar) firmly into the keyboard surface and pull it away. The putty adhesion lifts debris that has settled too deep for the brush or swab to reach. Repeat until the putty lifts clean.
- Final dry wipe — once satisfied with the cleaning, run a dry microfibre cloth across the key surfaces to remove any remaining moisture and leave a clean, matte finish.
Dealing with a sticky key
If a key feels sticky — more resistant to press than the others, or slow to spring back — the issue is almost always debris under the key mechanism or dried liquid residue around the key's edges. Try the following:
- Apply a small amount of IPA to a cotton swab and run it around all four edges of the sticky key, pressing gently so the IPA seeps slightly into the gap around the key. The IPA dissolves dried residue.
- Press the key repeatedly immediately after applying — this works the IPA into the mechanism and breaks up the stickiness.
- If the key still feels sticky after three or four applications, there may be a physical obstruction under the key that requires professional removal and cleaning of the keycap mechanism.
⚠️ Do not try to remove keycaps on a modern laptop
On older mechanical keyboards, keycaps are designed to be removed for cleaning. On modern laptops — particularly MacBooks and thin Windows laptops from 2019 onwards — keycap mechanisms are extremely fragile. Attempting to lever off a keycap without specialist knowledge and the correct tool almost always results in breaking the scissor-switch mechanism underneath, turning a sticky key into a permanently broken one.
After a liquid spill — emergency procedure
A liquid spill on a laptop keyboard is a genuine emergency that requires immediate, specific action. The speed of your response in the first sixty seconds determines whether the laptop survives.
LIQUID SPILL EMERGENCY RESPONSE
- Power off immediately — do not save files, do not close applications. Hold the power button until the laptop shuts off. Every second of continued operation while liquid is inside increases the risk of a short circuit.
- Unplug the charger immediately
- Turn the laptop upside down — open the lid fully and place the laptop face-down on an absorbent towel. Gravity will draw the liquid away from the motherboard and toward the keyboard surface from which it entered.
- Blot, do not wipe — press absorbent material gently against the keyboard to draw out liquid. Wiping spreads liquid further.
- Do not use a hairdryer or heat source — heat drives liquid further into the device and can damage components directly. Room temperature air only.
- Leave face-down for a minimum of 48 hours — before attempting to power on. Preferably 72 hours if a significant amount of liquid was spilled.
- Seek professional assessment — even if the laptop powers on after drying, liquid can leave residue that causes corrosion over weeks. A professional can clean the interior and assess for damage.
Part 3: Cleaning the Trackpad
Cleaning the Trackpad
The trackpad is touched hundreds of times a day and accumulates skin oils rapidly — which is why trackpad surfaces often begin to feel subtly less responsive over time. The oils create a thin film that changes how the surface texture registers finger movement and reduces the precision of gesture recognition.
Standard trackpad cleaning
TRACKPAD CLEANING METHOD
- Power off before cleaning — an active trackpad can register your cleaning cloth as input and generate unintended commands.
- Dampen a microfibre cloth with 70% IPA — very lightly. The cloth should leave no visible wet trail as you wipe.
- Wipe in firm, deliberate strokes from one side of the trackpad to the other — more pressure is appropriate here than on the screen, as the trackpad surface is robust.
- Use a cotton swab for the edges — the gap where the trackpad meets the surrounding palm rest accumulates significant grime. Run an IPA-dampened swab along all four edges.
- Dry with a clean cloth — buff the surface to a clean finish. Check for any remaining oil patches in raking light and repeat if needed.
Restoring trackpad sensitivity
If your trackpad feels less sensitive after cleaning — which can occasionally happen if the surface is slightly wet — allow it to dry completely for 10–15 minutes before powering on. The sensitivity will return to normal once the surface is fully dry. If sensitivity remains reduced after drying, check your trackpad sensitivity settings in System Settings (Mac) or Mouse settings (Windows) — they may have been inadvertently changed.
Part 4: Cleaning Laptop Vents and Improving Cooling
Cleaning Laptop Vents and Fan — Without Opening the Device
Cleaning the vents is the single most impactful maintenance task for laptop performance and longevity. A laptop with clean cooling pathways runs cooler, performs faster (because thermal throttling does not occur), and experiences less long-term component stress. This should be done every three to six months under normal conditions, and more frequently in dusty environments or homes with pets.
Locating your laptop's vents
Before cleaning, identify all the ventilation points on your laptop:
- Exhaust vents: Almost always on the rear edge and/or sides of the laptop. These expel hot air from the cooling system. They are typically a series of parallel slots or a grille.
- Intake vents: Usually on the bottom of the laptop. These draw in cool air. They may be less obvious — look for grille-covered openings on the underside. Some thin laptops also intake air through the keyboard or hinge gap.
- Use your torch to inspect the vents for visible dust accumulation. A healthy vent should allow you to see through to the fan blade or heat sink beyond. A clogged vent looks solid — you cannot see through it.
Vent cleaning with compressed air
VENT CLEANING METHOD — STEP BY STEP
- Power off and unplug — essential before any vent cleaning.
- Work in a well-ventilated area — you will be expelling dust into the air around you. Outdoors or near an open window is ideal.
- Insert the nozzle extension into the compressed air can — this allows precise placement.
- Insert the nozzle tip into each exhaust vent — spray in short 2–3 second bursts, not continuous long sprays. The short bursts create pressure waves that dislodge dust more effectively than a continuous stream.
- Angle the laptop so dust exits, not enters — tilt the laptop so gravity assists expelled dust in falling out of the device. If you are blowing into an exhaust vent, the goal is to push debris toward the intake vents and out through the bottom, not further into the heat sink.
- Work from multiple angles — spray into both the exhaust and intake vents in alternating passes. This dislodges dust from both sides of the heat sink.
- Prevent the fan from spinning — if possible, insert a toothpick through a vent slot to stop the fan from spinning while you apply compressed air. A fan spinning in the wrong direction from compressed air can generate voltage that damages the fan motor bearings over time. Hold it still, do not let it spin freely.
- Inspect with the torch after — check whether you can see more clearly through the vents than before. Repeat until no more dust is visibly expelled.
💡 How much of a difference does vent cleaning make?
After a thorough vent clean, it is normal to see CPU temperatures drop by 5–15°C under load. In severe cases of dust buildup, the improvement can be even greater. You may also notice the fan is quieter at the same workloads — because it no longer needs to spin as fast to achieve adequate cooling through the now-clean pathways.
When external vent cleaning is not enough
External compressed air cleaning removes a significant portion of dust, but it cannot fully clean a heavily clogged heat sink or replace degraded thermal paste between the CPU and heat sink. If your laptop continues to run hot after thorough vent cleaning, or if it has not been professionally opened and cleaned in three or more years, an internal clean — which includes brushing the heat sink fins directly and reapplying thermal paste — should be performed by a professional.
| Situation | Recommended Action | Who Does It |
|---|---|---|
| Vents look partially dusty, laptop runs warm but not hot | Compressed air vent clean | DIY — safe |
| Cannot see through vents at all, laptop frequently very hot | Compressed air + professional internal clean | DIY first, then professional |
| Laptop over 3 years old, never been opened | Professional internal clean + thermal paste reapplication | Professional |
| Temperatures remain above 90°C after compressed air clean | Professional thermal maintenance required | Professional — urgent |
Part 5: Cleaning Ports and Connectors
Cleaning USB Ports, Charging Ports, and Audio Jacks
Ports are overlooked in most cleaning routines but are frequently the cause of intermittent connection issues, charging problems, and audio quality degradation. The charging port in particular — especially USB-C, which is now the standard charging connector on most laptops and phones — is prone to lint accumulation that prevents a proper electrical connection.
Identifying a clogged port
Use your small torch to illuminate the interior of each port. A clean port should show clear, unobstructed contacts. A clogged port will show visible lint, dust, or debris packed against the back of the connector. If your USB cable has started requiring more force to insert, or your charging cable feels loose where it used to feel secure, lint compaction is almost certainly the cause.
Safe port cleaning method
PORT CLEANING — SAFE METHOD
- Power off completely before cleaning any port.
- Use compressed air first — direct the nozzle at the port opening at a slight angle and use a short burst to dislodge loose debris. Do not insert the nozzle into the port — blast across the opening.
- Use a dry toothpick for stubborn lint in charging ports — wood is safe because it is non-conductive. Very gently work the toothpick tip around the edges of the port to loosen compacted lint. Work from the sides, not by pressing straight back — pressing straight back can damage the contacts.
- Never use metal objects — pins, needles, staples, or paper clips are conductors. Contact with the port contacts while even the tiniest charge remains can cause a short circuit. Wood and plastic only.
- For headphone jacks — a dry cotton swab just small enough to enter the jack can lift lint and dust. Insert gently, rotate, and remove. Do not apply IPA to a headphone jack — liquid in the jack can reach the audio contacts and cause corrosion.
- Final compressed air pass — after mechanical cleaning, a final compressed air burst removes any newly loosened debris.
Part 6: Cleaning the Exterior Casing
Cleaning the Lid, Palm Rest, and Bottom Panel
The exterior surfaces of a laptop — the lid, palm rest, and bottom panel — accumulate fingerprints, skin oils, surface grime, and environmental dust continuously. These surfaces are the most robust on the device and can be cleaned with slightly more confidence than the screen or keyboard, but they still require appropriate care depending on the material.
Common laptop casing materials and how to clean them
- Aluminium / metal (MacBooks, premium Windows laptops): IPA at 70% on a microfibre cloth is ideal. Aluminium is resistant to IPA and develops a clean, streak-free finish. Wipe in one direction along the grain of any brushed metal texture.
- Plastic / ABS casing (most mainstream laptops): IPA at 70% is safe. Avoid excessive moisture and do not apply significant pressure to thin plastic panels, which can flex and crack.
- Rubberised soft-touch finish: This finish is found on many business laptops (ThinkPads, some Dell Latitudes). Over time, the rubberised coating can become sticky or tacky — particularly in warm conditions. IPA can help temporarily, but the tackiness is a degradation of the coating itself and will recur. Avoid excess moisture on these surfaces as it can accelerate the degradation.
- Carbon fibre panels: Treat as you would aluminium — IPA on a microfibre cloth. The woven texture traps dust; a soft brush first, then a damp wipe.
EXTERIOR CASING CLEAN
- Power off and unplug.
- Use the soft brush to remove loose surface dust from the lid and bottom panel, paying attention to the vent area and hinge region where dust accumulates most.
- Dampen a microfibre cloth with 70% IPA — more liberally than for the screen, but still not wet.
- Wipe the lid, palm rest, and around the hinge in firm, deliberate strokes.
- Use a cotton swab for the hinge area — grime accumulates heavily around laptop hinges and in the gap between the screen assembly and the base unit.
- Wipe the bottom panel — this is the dirtiest part of most laptops, as it contacts desk surfaces and handles constantly. Give it a thorough wipe, avoiding the vent grilles (clean those separately with compressed air).
- Dry buff with a clean microfibre cloth.
Part 7: How to Safely Clean Your Smartphone
Cleaning Your Smartphone — Screen, Case, and Ports
Smartphones are handled hundreds of times per day, placed on various surfaces, brought into bathrooms, and are in constant contact with hands that have touched countless other surfaces. Studies consistently find that smartphone screens are among the most bacteria-contaminated surfaces most people interact with regularly. Regular cleaning is both a hygiene and a maintenance requirement.
What is safe for smartphone screens in 2026
Most smartphones released since 2020 have an oleophobic coating on the screen — an oil-repelling layer that reduces fingerprint visibility and helps the screen feel smooth under your fingertip. This coating is more durable than laptop screen coatings but is still chemically sensitive.
✅ Safe for smartphones
- Microfibre cloth (dry): The default and safest first step for any screen cleaning. Removes the vast majority of fingerprints and smudges without any liquid.
- 70% isopropyl alcohol wipes or solution on a cloth: Apple, Google, and Samsung all confirm that IPA at 70% is safe for their screens when applied on a cloth rather than sprayed directly. Effective for disinfection.
- Distilled water on a cloth: For gentle cleaning without disinfection. Safer on any screen type than IPA if you are uncertain.
- Screen-specific sanitising wipes (70% IPA): Convenience option for quick cleans on the go. Ensure they are 70% IPA and do not contain added moisturisers or bleach.
🚫 Never use on smartphones
- Bleach wipes or bleach-containing products — strip oleophobic coating immediately
- Vinegar or vinegar-based cleaners — the acidity attacks screen coatings
- Spray cleaners applied directly — liquid can enter the charging port and speaker grilles
- Abrasive materials — paper towels, rough cloths, or anything that scratches
SMARTPHONE CLEANING — STEP BY STEP
- Power off or at minimum lock the screen — prevents accidental inputs during cleaning.
- Remove any case — the phone casing needs cleaning separately, and leaving it on traps moisture around the edges of the phone.
- Dry microfibre wipe first — wipe the screen gently to remove loose dust and surface oils.
- Apply IPA to a fresh microfibre cloth — very lightly damp. Wipe the screen in one direction across the full surface.
- Clean the back and sides — the back of the phone is often more contaminated than the screen. Wipe with the same dampened cloth.
- Use a toothpick for the charging port — pocket lint in the USB-C or Lightning port is extremely common. Use a wooden toothpick to gently dislodge compacted lint from the sides of the port, then compressed air to clear it.
- Clean the speaker grilles with a soft brush — gentle strokes across the speaker grille holes dislodge debris without pushing it further in.
- Clean the phone case separately — silicone and rubber cases can be washed with mild soap and water and dried thoroughly before reattaching.
Part 8: Cleaning an External Monitor
Cleaning Your External Monitor
External monitors — whether LCD, IPS, or OLED panels — should be cleaned with the same care and methodology as a laptop screen, with a few additional considerations specific to their larger size and different panel constructions.
Key differences from laptop screen cleaning
- Power off and disconnect from the wall — not just the computer. A connected monitor carries residual charge through the HDMI or DisplayPort cable even when off.
- Do not apply pressure to large panels — larger LCD panels are more susceptible to pressure damage than laptop screens. The same very light touch that you use on a laptop screen is even more important on a large desktop monitor. Pressing too hard creates temporary pressure marks or, in severe cases, permanent dark patches.
- Work in sections on large monitors — with a 27" or larger panel, it is practical to work in sections (top half, then bottom half) to ensure each section is properly cleaned before moving on.
- Clean the base and stand — monitor stands accumulate significant desk dust. Clean with IPA on a cloth, paying attention to the base where it contacts the desk.
- Clean the rear vents — monitors have cooling vents, typically on the rear panel. Use compressed air to clear these every six months.
Part 9: Cleaning Your External Mouse and Keyboard
External Mouse and Desktop Keyboard Cleaning
External peripherals — particularly mechanical keyboards and mice — accumulate grime rapidly and are used so constantly that even a week without cleaning produces visible and tactile results. The good news is that most external peripherals are more robust than laptop components and can tolerate slightly more vigorous cleaning.
External keyboard
Unlike laptop keyboards, many external keyboards allow keycap removal for deep cleaning. Mechanical keyboards in particular are designed for this — keycaps pull straight off with a keycap puller (a small plastic tool, typically included with the keyboard) and can be washed with warm water and mild soap, then dried completely before reattaching. The keyboard base can be cleaned with compressed air and IPA while the keycaps are off.
For membrane keyboards (the flat, non-mechanical type), the cleaning approach mirrors the laptop keyboard method: compressed air, soft brush, IPA wipe, cotton swabs in the gaps, and cleaning putty for deep debris.
External mouse
MOUSE CLEANING METHOD
- Turn off the mouse (wireless) or disconnect (wired) before cleaning.
- Remove the battery or USB receiver if applicable.
- IPA wipe across all surfaces — the buttons, scroll wheel housing, side grips, and underside. Grime accumulates most heavily on the side grips where fingers rest and on the scroll wheel.
- Clean the scroll wheel gap — the narrow gap around the scroll wheel is a significant grime trap. Use a cotton swab dampened with IPA and work around the wheel on both sides.
- Clean the mouse feet — the small PTFE pads on the underside of the mouse that it glides on. Grime on mouse feet increases friction and changes how the mouse feels to move. Clean with a dry cloth or very lightly dampened cloth. Do not saturate — the pads can be damaged by excess moisture.
- Clean the optical sensor — use a dry cotton swab and very gently wipe across the sensor window on the underside. Dust on the sensor causes erratic tracking.
Part 10: Software Maintenance to Complement Physical Cleaning
Physical cleaning addresses the hardware layer. Complementing it with regular software maintenance creates a comprehensive device maintenance routine that keeps both the physical device and its operating system in optimal condition.
Monthly software maintenance checklist
- Clear temporary files: Windows — run Disk Cleanup (cleanmgr) or use Storage Sense. Mac — clear system caches via ~/Library/Caches and restart.
- Check and clear the Downloads folder: Move what you need to keep into organised folders and delete the rest. The Downloads folder is the single fastest-growing source of storage consumption on most personal computers.
- Update the operating system: Check for pending Windows or macOS updates and apply them. Updates include performance improvements, security patches, and bug fixes that keep the system running efficiently.
- Update all applications: Outdated applications can have bugs that cause unnecessary resource consumption. Enable automatic updates where possible, or run a manual check monthly.
- Check startup programs: New applications frequently add themselves to startup without asking. Open Task Manager → Startup (Windows) or System Settings → Login Items (Mac) and remove anything that should not be launching automatically.
- Run a malware scan: Use Windows Security's built-in full scan or a free tool like Malwarebytes. Monthly scans catch threats before they become performance problems.
- Check storage usage: Ensure at least 15–20% of your storage remains free. Address any unexpected large files immediately.
- Review browser extensions: Remove any extensions you are not actively using. Each extension consumes browser memory and slows startup.
For a complete guide to the software fixes that improve laptop performance, read: How to Speed Up a Slow Laptop Without Buying a New One
Your Complete Device Maintenance Schedule
Consistency is more important than thoroughness in device maintenance. A quick weekly clean beats an intensive annual one. Use this schedule as a reference for how often each task should be done.
📅 Weekly
- Dry microfibre wipe of screen
- Quick keyboard surface wipe
- Trackpad clean
- Clear browser cache
- Empty Recycle Bin / Trash
📅 Monthly
- Full screen clean (IPA + cloth)
- Deep keyboard clean with compressed air and swabs
- Wipe exterior casing and palm rest
- Clean smartphone screen and case
- Clear temporary files and Downloads folder
- Run malware scan
- Check and update all software
- Review startup programs
📅 Every 3 Months
- Compressed air vent clean
- Clean all ports with toothpick and compressed air
- Clean monitor stand and rear vents
- Deep clean external mouse and keyboard
- Check drive health (CrystalDiskInfo)
- Review and archive old files
- Verify cloud backup is working
📅 Annually
- Professional internal clean if laptop is 2+ years old
- Thermal paste reapplication assessment (3+ years old)
- Battery health report — assess whether replacement is needed
- Full device audit — assess performance and condition
- Replace worn peripherals (mouse feet, keyboard keycaps)
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the safest thing to clean a laptop screen with?
The safest and most effective method is a dry microfibre cloth for routine cleaning, and a solution of equal parts distilled water and 70% isopropyl alcohol applied to a microfibre cloth (never directly to the screen) for a deeper clean. Never use paper towels, household glass cleaners, ammonia-based products, or bleach on any screen surface.
How often should I clean my laptop?
The screen and keyboard surface should be wiped weekly. A full clean including compressed air vent cleaning should be done monthly. A thorough deep clean — including ports, exterior, and vents — should happen every three months. Professionally, an internal clean and thermal paste reapplication is worth having done every one to two years on a regularly used laptop.
Is it safe to use compressed air to clean a laptop?
Yes, when used correctly. Use short bursts rather than continuous sprays, hold the can upright, keep it 3–5cm from the surface, and prevent the fan from spinning freely by inserting a toothpick through the vent to hold the blade still. Never invert the can while spraying — this releases liquid propellant that can damage components.
Can I use alcohol wipes on my laptop keyboard?
Yes — 70% isopropyl alcohol wipes are safe and effective for laptop keyboards. They disinfect effectively and evaporate quickly without leaving residue. Avoid wipes that are excessively wet, and do not use bleach wipes, antibacterial wipes with added moisturisers, or any wipe that contains fragrance or skin-conditioning agents, as these leave chemical residue on key surfaces.
How do I clean lint out of a USB-C charging port?
Use a wooden toothpick — never metal — to very gently work the tip around the inside edges of the port and dislodge compacted lint. Then use a short burst of compressed air across the port opening to blow the loosened debris out. Power off the device before doing this. Check with a torch afterward to confirm the port is clear. If the lint is extremely compacted or you are uncertain, seek professional cleaning to avoid damaging the contacts.
My laptop lid has become sticky — how do I clean it?
A sticky laptop lid is typically caused by skin oil buildup or — on laptops with a rubberised soft-touch coating — the degradation of that coating itself. For oil buildup, IPA on a microfibre cloth cleans it effectively. For a rubberised coating that has become intrinsically sticky (a very common issue on certain ThinkPad and Dell Latitude models), IPA provides temporary relief but the coating will become sticky again as it continues to degrade. The long-term solution for degraded rubber coatings is to remove the coating entirely with acetone — but this is irreversible and changes the aesthetic of the lid permanently.
Need help with your device's maintenance?
Workvera provides professional device care — from internal cleaning and thermal maintenance to full device health assessments. If your device needs more than a wipe-down, we are here to help.
Book a Device Care Session